Grand Place, Brussels, Belgium

Known today most commonly as the Grand Place in Brussels, it can also be referred to as the Grand Square or Grote Markt.  Many things in Belgium have three names, depending on the language being used, and this can make it quite confusing to tourists. The Grand Place is certainly Brussels most famous landmark.  It is often stated that it contains medieval architecture and while that may be true of its Town Hall, or Hotel de Ville, it really is otherwise a stretch.  To say it has medieval foundations though, would be more accurate.  Today it is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, and was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. 

The medieval roots of the Grand Place begin in the 10th Century, but by the end of the 11th Century there was an open-air market on this site called Nedermerckt, meaning ‘Lower Market' in Old Dutch. The market was well situated at the time, along the now removed Causeway.  By the 13th Century, three indoor markets were housed along the northern edge of the Grand Place, these were the meat market, bread market and cloth market. 

In the 14th Century, a large indoor cloth market was built by the city, on the Grand Place.  Around this time, the city also demolished a number of buildings that did not conform to the uniform standards of the square, and its boundaries were defined into those we see today.

The Town Hall was built between 1401 and 1455, on the south side of the Grand Place.  This was not only transformational to the square itself, but it also made it the seat of municipal power.  The Town Hall’s spire rises to 96 meters (315 feet), and at the top is a 12-foot-tall statue of Saint Michael slaying a demon or dragon.

The King’s House, or Maison du Roi, which means King’s House in French, is however in Dutch called Broodhuis or Breadhouse, after the market which once stood there. The Dutch version is probably more accurate as no King ever stayed here.  It was originally a wooden building belonging to the bread market, but by the 15th Century bakers began to sell their goods house to house, and the building was then used by the Duke of Brabant to house his administration.  When the then Duke of Brabant became King of Spain, the house took on the name of King’s House. The King’s House was re-built across from the Town Hall in the 16th Century, on the site which had previously been the cloth and bread markets. 

As the city continued to prosper, wealthy merchant’s guilds were set up around the square.  Each was built to show the prosperity of the guild, and to well, publicly show of. While the buildings may not be medieval, their symbolism certainly is.  Every guild house could have been read by the meaning of its ornamentation.  These houses are covered in gilded statues and adorned with symbols relating to the guilds trade. 

On the 13th of August, in the year 1695, a French army of 70,000 sent by King Louis XIV, attacked Brussels and the Grand Place. The French bombardment of the city set fire to the buildings in the Grand Place, anything made of wood disappeared completely and all the interiors were lost to the fires. Most of the buildings on the square were completely destroyed. Only the Town Hall remained standing, but it too lost its interior. Everything had to be recreated and we are lucky that it was decided to recreate it exactly as it had been. Part of the uniformity of the Grand Place is due to the fact that it was all rebuilt at the same time. 

The Archduchess Isabella of Spain, who was the daughter of Philip II of Spain, visited the Grand Place in Brussels in 1599.  She wrote: 

            ‘Never have I seen something so beautiful and exquisite as the town square of the city where the town hall rises up into the sky.  The decoration of the houses is more remarkable.’

 

In medieval Brussels, only those who were deemed to be the Burghers were able to obtain political rights and privileges.  In exchange for these special rights and privileges, they would pay a tax.  This special category fell to only seven noble houses of Brussels, as they were the only ones wealthy enough to quality to become Burghers, as the person was required to be living exclusively off their one private income, meaning anyone working in a trade was automatically disqualified.  These seven noble houses shared the most prestigious roles in the administration of the city.  Each family was also responsible for defending one of the cities seven gates. In addition, they were also responsible for the underprivileged of the city and were tasked with the creation and management of the hospitals and infirmaries.

The Roi d’Espagne block of houses in the Grand Square, contains that of the baker’s guild, which was one of the most important and wealthiest guilds in Brussels.  This is also the location of the Tallow Chandlers guild, also known as the House of the Corporation of Greasers, since the 15th Century. They would have sold all sorts of oil and fat based goods such as candles, oil, butter, cheese and lard.  They also sold eggs and poultry. There is also the Carpenter’s Guild and the Archer’s guild, whose buildings is topped with a phoenix, which like the Grand Square itself rose from the ashes.  Also in this row is the Boatmen’s Guild and the Guild of Haberdashers. 

The Haberdasher’s Guild was also an old and prosperous guild in Brussels.  Although they mainly purchased supplies from craftsmen, they also sought out rare and exotic foods and spices. They would sell spices, sweet wine such as hippocras or malmsey, but they also sold products like sewing equipment, pottery, baskets, chests, paper, small toys, glass beads and even weapons.  They didn’t make any of these products but purchased and resold them. 

The Town Hall has dominated Brussels landscape for centuries.  The building itself could once have been seen for miles around.  Its façade holds around 300 statues. When the building was new they would have been 15th Century carvings that adorned its medieval frontage. Today’s statues are recreations, which were added in the 19th Century, as most of the originals have not survived. Those that stand today pay tribute to the various people who have played a role in Brussels political, economic and cultural history. 

Since the 15th Century, the Town Hall has been a municipal building, housing successive mayors and aldermen.  On close examination, it becomes apparent that the buildings two wings, which are separated by the tower,weren’t built at the same time. They were built in slightly different styles.

The Lion Staircase leads to the main entrance of the Town Hall, although the lions were not added until 1770, they are shown holding the arms of Brussels.  The steps were also redesigned in 1866, with the openwork balustrade and quatrefoil motifs we see today.

The block of houses known as the Cygne Block, contained the Brewers and the Butchers Guild.  The Butchers were also once of the richest guilds in Brussels.  In 1446, they obtained the right from Philip the Good (Duke of Burgundy), to ban all those were who not of the same flesh and blood, so you could not become a butcher in Belgium unless you married into the trade, allowing them to monopolise the trade completely. The officials in Brussels did oppose the decision, and eventually won their case in 1458, but the guild did not accept the decision and the butchers continued to demand the restoration of their privilege, which they obtained again from Charles V in 1519. 

The block known as the Ducs de Brabant, has the appearance of one large building occupying the squares entire east side. The symmetry of the facade hides the fact that this building is actually seven separate, but adjoining houses that share a history.  In the 12th Century, the area surrounding the square contained a scattering of wooden houses, with several stone buildings, that belonged to the wealthier families.  By the 15th Century, the city authorities wanted to expand and standardise the square, by aligning the houses and harmonising the facades.  It was agreed that a common façade would be built in stone in front of what were then six houses, now seven, in order to unify their appearance.  After they were destroyed by the bombardment of 1695, it was agreed to recreate them under a single facade. 

The Chaloupe d’Or Block of houses in the Grand Place, contained the guilds of tailors and that of the painters.  They are set next to what were personal houses of the wealthy. The tailors would have made all sorts of clothing, with the cloth being supplied by the customer.  There was a lot of competition in this trade from women and young girls, before the guilds formation in Brussels on the 14th of June in 1466.  Forming the guild would then guarantee the monopoly over the cloth making trade in the city.  The painters guild was formed in Brussels in 1387. Its members were not just painters but also goldbeaters and glassworkers, who joined together to form the guild.  Each master was only allowed to admit one apprentice at a time to his workshop.

The King’s House today contains the Museum of the City of Brussels, which was created by the Mayor in 1887.  It contains the original statue of St. Michael which once sat at the top of the spire of the Town Hall.  This original work was created by Martin van Rode, and dates from 1455. 

The Museum of the City of Brussels also contains other treasures, such as a 15th Century altar piece.  The central figures of the altar piece would have been created from a white plaster or wax-based blend, that was poured into moulds.  The figures were then taken from the mould, and were gilded and painted while being stuck onto the surface. Most of these altar pieces could be folded closed for easy transportation and protection when not in use.