Imperial Treasury Museum, Vienna

The significant treasures of Austrian history can be found in the Imperial Treasury, in the Swiss Wing of the Hofburg complex. We can be grateful that efforts were made from an early date to keep the imperial treasure together and pass it down through the generations. In the middle ages, the treasure represented a movable fortune, which could be displayed, or bestowed as gifts. It was also wealth that could be quickly converted into cash in times of need. In 1364, a common ‘household treasure’ is mentioned for the first time.   It was to be managed on the principle of seniority, and not to be disposed of. In the 17th Century, this went one-step farther, when Emperor Ferdinand II took the step of declaring that all household jewellery and art treasures, present and future, were to be kept as unalienable property of the ruling house.

One of the central items of the insignia was always the Imperial Crown. The early medieval crown of the Holy Roman Empire has eight panels, which are alternately decorated with precious stones, pearls and enamelled images. It is thought to have been made for Emperor Otto the Great, or his son the Emperor Otto II, in the second half of the 10th Century. 

What also exists here, is something extremely rare in Europe. Clothing has survived. This piece was made in the Royal Court Workshop, from silk, gold thread and small gold tubes, as well as gold with cloisonné enamel and pearls. The silk was dyed a dark blue and has survived in remarkable condition. It is assumed that this is part of the coronation outside, as the embroidery matches the coronation mantle. The blue is made from indigo, the palmettes on the cuffs are formed from rows of pearls and stitched with small gold reeds. This garment dates from the early 12th Century.

The coronation mantle contains a Cufic (early Arabic) inscription, which tells us that the mantle was created at the court of King Roger II (1097-1130), in Palermo. The red samite was decorated with ancient power symbols and gold embroidery. The border has a double row of pearls, while in the centre stands the tree of life. On either side, there is a golden lion triumphing over a camel. Above the head of each lion, there is a round enamel piece. In 1194, the mantle passed to the Hohenstaufens by inheritance, as part of the treasure of the Norman Kings. King Frederick II added the robes to the state treasury around 1220.

I do not know of any other European museum that has this many garments from the Middle Ages. Sometimes you will find there is a small scrap of fabric, or possibly an ecclesiastical robe, but this is what makes the Hofburg museum special to the medievalist. The Alb garment was also made in Palermo, and dates from 1181. There are also Latin and Arabic inscriptions on the edge of the broad hem. These tell us that the robe was created under King William II (1153-1189). This was originally a royal outer garment.

Burgundy came under the rule of the Empire, when Mary of Burgundy died while she was married to the Archduke Maximilian of Austria. This area included Flanders and The Netherlands. With the lands also came the Burgundian Treasury, and although some objects were sold off over the years, the museum still retains a large collection.

With all the other possessions inherited with the Burgundian lands, also came the Order of the Golden Fleece. This secular order of chivalry, similar to the Order of the Garter in England, would use ceremonial robes at their gatherings. The robes have survived; the Lady’s Cope dates from 1425-1440. It is made on a linen backing, and edged in red velvet and gold braid, with gold and silver thread.

The male version is known as the Cope of Christ, and also dates from 1425-1440. This was created in much the same way as the Lady’s Cope, the thread would have literally been dipped in melted gold or silver, which allows it to shine all these hundreds of years later.