Rouen, Normandy, France

The Duchy of Normandy began with a grant from King Charles III of France, in 911, to the Viking leader Rollo. This grant was expanded in 924 and 933. Although Rollo was the first Duke of Normandy, it was not a title he used. Having secured a foothold on Frankish land, King Charles granted him the lands to the north, between the mouth of the Seine and Rouen, in exchange for Rollo agreeing to end his raiding and provide the King protection against future Viking attacks. 

Rollo created his base at Rouen. He successfully held the area and it was inherited by his decedents. Rollo’s children became the Dukes of Normandy, although the title of Duke was not used until the 11th Century- they would have been know as Counts. Rollo was succeeded by his son, William I Longsword, of Normandy, until he was assassinated in 942, while attending a peace conference which obviously didn’t go well.

William I of Normandy, was succeeded by his illegitimate 10 year old son Richard, who became Richard I, Duke or Count of Normandy, also known as Richard the Fearless. The name might indicate that he did not just walk into his title quietly, instead he was held captivate by King Louis IV of France, while the King seized the lands of Normandy and kept Richard in confinement at Laon. Richard managed to escape and allied himself, at the age of 14, with King Harold of Denmark. King Louis IV was captured in battle and he was forced to recognise Richard as Duke of Normandy and return his lands to him. Richard the Fearless is also attributed with having introduced feudalism into Normandy. He spent his reign building up Normandy, until his death in 996.

Richard the Fearless married his children well, they all became Counts or Countesses, except his daughter Emma, who married AEthelred the Unready, of England, and after his death in 1016, she married King Cnut of England. She was the mother of Edward the Confessor; this drew the first hereditary link between Normandy and England.

When Richard the Fearless of Normandy died, he was succeeded by his son Richard II the Good. He in turn was succeeded by his son, Richard III of Normandy who died without issue and was succeeded by his brother Robert I who was the father of William the Conqueror. The Viking leader Rollo was therefore, the great-great-great grandfather of William the Conqueror.

The Gros Horloge (Great Clock) of Rouen, dates from the 1300’s, although it has been run by an electric mechanism from the 20th Century. It is one of the oldest clocks that sounded bells at the quarter hour, where most were on the hour only. The globe above the clock shows the phase of the moon.

The clock's moving display shows different gods and goddesses, representing the days of the week. The clock tower houses a museum to the clock, and contains the original medieval mechanism. The arch itself dates from 1527.

Rouen is still the capital of Normandy. After the French Revolution, all of the fortification of Rouen disappeared. The walls, ditches, towers and gates are no more. It's history instead, is found in the interior of Rouen, which has over 2,000 half-timbered houses, about 10% of which date from the middle ages. Rouen still contains 6 of it's once 37 churches, as well as a magnificent cathedral. The layout is still medieval and its charming cobblestone streets give a feeling of time travel.

In 1419, Henry V of England took Rouen during the Hundred Years War. I can not discuss Rouen without mentioning one particular medieval girl, who, around the year 1422, very likely had mental health issues and heard voices, but yet had such convictions in her beliefs, that she turned the Hundred Years War in the favour of France. If you haven’t guess yet, I’m referring to Joan of Arc.

Joan of Arc, also known as the Maid of Orleans, was born at Domremy, in North-East France. Joan firmly believed that her visions of angels and the voices that she heard, were sent by God, and that it was up to her to save France. The voices instructed her to help Charles VII to recover France from the English. In 1428, Joan made her way to Robert de Baudricout, a local nobleman and supporter of Charles. He initially refused to see her, but later relented after hearing of the support she received from the villagers. In 1429, he offered her a horse and an escort to take her to Chinon, where Charles held his court. Charles was initially wary of the girl who proclaimed that she could save France. However it is thought he was impressed by her ability to identify him among a crowd.

Charles agreed to allow the 17-year-old Joan to accompany the army to Orleans in 1429, which was under English siege. The French won a series of battles and took back their fortification. The tide was turning in favour of the French and many believed Joan was the reason. In 1430, Charles VII sent Joan to the town of Compiegne, to confront the Burgundians. Joan was thrown from her horse during the battle and taken prisoner. Charles made no effort to ransom her, so the English did instead. They paid the Burgundians 10,000 Francs and imprisoned Joan at Rouen.

The Church officials insisted that Joan be tried as a heretic and laid 70 charges against her. Joan was tried at Rouen and found guilty. She was burnt at the stake on the 30th of May 1431. She was 19 years old. Charles VII later ordered an investigation into her death and, in 1456, she was declared innocent of all charges and designated a Martyr. She was Canonised and became St. Joan in 1920, and is now the Patron Saint of France.

The ancient city of Rouen was severely affected by World War II and felt the full weight of the Allied forces.  This tangle of narrow streets and half timbered medieval homes were 45% destroyed. Even early in the war, when Rouen was held by German forces, a fire broke out between the Cathedral and the Seine River, and the Germans did not allow firemen to access the area, so the city burned for 48 hours and destroyed as many as 900 ancient buildings.