Ghent, Belgium

Ghent is located at the junction of the River Leie and the River Scheldt.  Today it has a population of 240,000 people.  The first traces of human settlement here go back 50,000 years. We know the area has been permanently settled since 700BC, with the Romans ruling over the area from 50BC.  Closer to our time period, in 630, St Amandus arrived to spread Christianity.  He founded two Abbeys, St. Bavo’s and St. Peter’s, on the banks of the River Scheldt.  

In the late 8th Century, Charlemagne fortified the harbour in Ghent, but that didn’t stop both St. Bavo’s and St. Peter’s Abbeys from being destroyed by Viking raiders in the 9th Century. Between the years 850 and 881 the Viking raids continued, the monks who had fled did however return and rebuild the Abbeys.  It was also in the 9th Century, that the first wall was built around the monastic communities for obvious reasons.

In the Middle Ages, Ghent was one of the largest cities in Europe. As its wealth grew, it was manifested into the construction of large stone houses, guild houses, and monumental public buildings. The city itself was under the protection of the Count of Flanders, and by the 13th Century it may have been the second largest city in Europe, after Paris. The real growth of Ghent happened between the 12th and 14th Centuries. It was during this time that the castles, warehouses, abbeys, churches, harbour, canals and guild houses were built. In the 13th Century, Ghent reached its height of power, with the cloth trade becoming the most important source of income for the city.

The citizens of Ghent were allowed to force every ship containing grain to store one quarter of its load in one of the many grain stores along the harbour, for a certain period of time, giving the bakers and brewers first choice, before the remaining grain could be sold at the market. This created a steady flow of grain, while at the same time it created jobs for the many processes needed. This obligation to store grain continued until 1734.

The Free Sailors of Ghent monopolised the river trade, as they were given the privilege known as ‘lastbreken’. This meant that any shipowner who was not a member of the Guild of Free Sailors, had to load their freight onto the boat of a guild member before it could be brought into the harbour. This created a significant source of income for the Free Sailors.

The dark grey building, made of Tournai limestone, is one of the oldest secular buildings in Ghent, built in the 13th Century. It was built with an impressive stepped gable, small windows, and an iron balustrade on the first floor. Sacks of grain were once pulled up to be stored here.  

Construction of the 91m tall Belfry started in 1301, it is a symbol of the city’s power and independence. The current roof is the seventh one to be installed, earlier roofs were made of wood.  The Ghent Dragon is perched on top, and is also used as a weather vane. Legend has it that the dragon was looted from Constantinople, but it has adorned the tower since its 14th Century construction. From the gallery of the Belfry, the city watchmen had a panoramic view of the city and would be able to sound the alarm if a fire was spotted. Eight watchmen were employed by the city until 1840. 

The Cloth Hall was built in 1425, with buttresses, roof dormers and stepped gables. This is where the weavers would bring their cloth to be tested, and where they offered it for sale.  The cloth trade went into decline in the early 15th Century, and because of this only the first seven bays were finished.  When the square was replanned in the 19th Century, the Cloth Hall was extended by four bays to complete the original plan. 

The Battle of Golden Spurs, in 1302, changed Ghent’s alliance and caused rifts within the town itself.  After two years of French military occupation in Flanders, many of the cities revolted against French rule. Ghent had previously been ruled by rich merchants, who had primarily chosen to side with the French King, against the Count of Flanders.  For this they were given the nickname ‘Leliaerts’, derived from the lily on the French coat of arms. When the full might of the French army attacked the revolting citizens of Flanders in 1302, the citizens of Ghent were caught in the middle.  Trade was difficult and there wasn’t enough food coming into the city.  The common people favoured the Count of Flanders, but the wealthy merchants had sided with the French King. It was feared that civil war would break out within the city itself.  When the Flemish infantry militia defeated the professional French cavalry, the unexpected victory saw the end of the French annexation.

By 1340, the cloth trade in Ghent had become dependent on its trade with England for wool. When the Hundred Year’s War broke out between England and France, the city became very concerned.  A man named Jacob van Artevelde was appointed as spokesman of the Ghent weaver’s guild, and quickly moved to acknowledge Edward III of England, as King of France, in exchange for a continued supply of wool.  He succeeded in his efforts, and King Edward III recognised Flanders as a neutral region and resumed trade links.   This made Artevelde a local hero.  His moment of fame however did not ensure a happy life, as five years later he was murdered in his home in Ghent, by the dean of his own guild.

Vrijdagmarkt is where the weavers and millers fought, where rulings were carried out and where Princes and Counts were honoured.  It was on this spot that Edward III visited Ghent in 1340, and had himself declared King of England and France. Edward III of England’s fourth son, John of Gaunt (i.e of Ghent), was born in Ghent in 1340. Today the largest buildings in the square are the Ons Huis and Bond Moson, they were both built around 1900 on behalf of the socialist party. Both are examples of the eclectic style of architecture, better known to many of us, as Art Deco.

The Town Hall was built over six centuries, with the oldest part now being its 14th Century gothic cellar. At this time, Ghent’s administration comprised of two bodies, with thirteen members each. 

The Groot Vleeshuis or Great Butchers Hall, dates from the early 15th Century. 116 butchers once displayed their goods here.  The waste products from the abattoir were sold in the Penshuisjes, or tripe houses, which were once propped against the wall of the building.  It continued to operate until 1884.

St. James’ Church is a mixture of different architectural styles, but the western façade still contains visible signs of the Romanesque church dating from the 12th Century, with its two mismatched tall spires. Its interior suffered during the iconoclastic outbreaks of the 16th Century. 

St Nicholas’ Church is built almost entirely of Tournai limestone. The church became derelict on two occasions and was threatened with demolition, but recent restoration work has been carried out to preserve it. 

St. Michael’s Church, from which the bridge takes its name, was started in the 1440’s. Its tiny spire was originally planned to be 134 meters tall, but due to lack of funds work was halted in 1672. 

The Korenlei, or old harbour, is situated on the River Leie, in the heart of the city.  This area has been a centre of trade since the early Middle Ages. 

St Michael’s Bridge offers some of the best views of the city of Ghent. From here the three spires and towers of St. Nichols’ Church, St. Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry can be seen.  It was designed by architect Louis Cloquet, and was built to mark the World Fair that was held in Ghent in 1913.  The bridge formed part of a plan to give better access to the city centre.

The 13th Century Castle of Geraard de Duivel, or Gerard the Devil, is situated on the River Scheldt.  Over the centuries it served many purposes. It was a residence of a wealthy Patrician, a city warehouse, a seminary school, an orphanage, a prison, an asylum, and after 1828, a fire watch.  By the end of the 19th Century, it was acquired by the state and completely restored.  The building has one of the best-preserved medieval cellars in the city, but sadly it is rarely open to the public.

In 1363, King John II of France, granted the Duchy of Burgundy to his own son, Philip the Bold. This was confirmed by the next King of France, Charles V.   Charles V and Philip the Bold had an alliance and supported each other politically, after all they were family.  Philip the Bold’s marriage was arranged by Charles V, and he married the heiress, Margaret of Flanders. This prevented her from marrying an English Prince, and two years later, in 1384, Margaret inherited the low countries, bringing it under the control of the Duke of Burgundy. By 1386 Philip had increased his domains in the Netherlands also. During the minority of Charles VI of France, Philip was involved in the government of France. He died in 1404 and left his son John the Fearless to inherit the Dukedom.

John the Fearless, Duke of Burgundy, ruled from 1404 until his death in 1419.  He was prominent in French national affairs and involved with the struggles to rule France, while the mentally ill King Charles VI was on the throne. John is thought to have murdered the King of France’s brother, the Duke of Orleans, in an attempt to gain control of the government. This led to the Armagnac-Burgundian Civil War, which in the end lead to his own assassination in 1419. Philip the Good became the next duke of Burgundy upon his father’s death.

Philip the Good was Duke of Burgundy from 1419-1467. During his reign the Burgundian state prospered and became a leading centre of the arts. Philip allied himself with Henry V of England, under the Treaty of Troyes.  It was Philip’s troops who captured Joan of Arc, who he later turned over to the English. The court of Duke of Burgundy was lavish and extravagant.  He created the Order of the Golden Fleece, which would eventually become the most prestigious and historic of all knightly orders of chivalry. When Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, died in 1467, the duchy which had grown to rival that of France in the 15th Century, was left to his son Charles the Bold.

Charles the Bold’s third wife was Margaret Plantagenet, the sister of King Edward IV and King Richard III of England. Charles seemed to have one real goal in life, and that was that he wanted independence from France. To do this, Burgundy would need to become an independent state where Charles would be King. He declared his lands to be independent, and united his northern and southern possessions. In so doing he triggered the Burgundian Wars, which broke out in 1474, where he was defeated and which led to his own death, at the Battle of Nancy in 1477.  From his three marriages he left only one surviving child, his 20-year-old daughter Mary, to inherit the Duchy of Burgundy. She married the future Holy Roman Emperor, Maximillian I, in 1477. Mary died 5 years later, when she fell from her horse and broke her back. Ghent passed to the rule of the House of Habsburg.

The He Rabot is a nice example of military architecture in Ghent.  Its two towered, fortified gateway, was used as part of the city walls of Ghent.  It is located on the north west side of the town, along the Lieve canal by a sluice gate which allowed access to the city from the north. The gateway was built on the order of Maximilian of Austria, to fortify this weak spot in the city’s defences. Building work started in 1489 and it was completed in 1491.

On the 24th of February 1500, Emperor Charles V was born in Ghent.  However, when the citizens of Ghent later refused contributions to Charles V for his wars with Francis I of France, Charles friendship towards the city came to an abrupt end.  In 1540, Charles V severely punished the city by tearing down the city walls and gates. The citizens themselves were sentenced to harsh punishments and punitive fines, they were stripped of their privileges, and the guilds were disbanded.  The ringleaders were hanged and beheaded.

The Groot Kanonplein, meaning large cannon square, contains a large 15th Century cannon known as the Dulle Griet.  It weighs 12,250 kg, and is the heaviest 15th Century cannon in Europe.  It is thought that the cannon was only used once, and has been standing on this spot for centuries.